It has been a busy fortnight in the Holme Valley.
The week leading up to Easter itself, or Holy Week as it is sometimes known
by people more devout than me, was blessed with particularly warm and clement
weather, which was simultaneously welcome (after winter’s rain and endless
gales) and irritating, because I couldn’t do what I really wanted to do, which was to join wholeheartedly in Debbie’s
self-proclaimed holiday, and womble off into the distance in our trusty (not to
mention rusty) VW camper van.
There were several issues; firstly, the stuff which I had to
do regarding books – particularly stuff which I had promised to do,
specifically to a deadline; then there was all of the tedious stuff which I had
to do for us, and for our own
well-being, such as accounts and checking the bank balance, and boring tedium
of that ilk, and finally there was my own state of health, particularly feeling
under par, constantly tired, and with a distinct lack of energy for anything
approaching loading up a camper van for a road trip.
Granny had already volunteered to come and take over our
house, feed the illusory badger, and look after Matilda, so that wasn’t an
issue, as such. We had no worries about
leaving her behind, she is quite happy here, insofar as she can ever be
described as happy, given that she invariably fixes you with a sour, evil glare
glare, bares her teeth and flattens her ears to her head, ready for a fight, is
quite capable of hissing at you for no reason whatsoever, and might even sink
her teeth into you, at the slightest provocation. The cat is pretty scary, as
well.
Debbie was saying that if we didn’t go away by Wednesday, it
wouldn’t be worth gong at all. Her Easter holidays come to an end on Monday 28th
April and in any case there was a huge stack of marking and general
preparation, so at least the last weekend of the holiday would have to be
sacrificed to unpaid work in order for her classes to happen next term. She had
already spent some of the holiday emailing work and crib sheets to some of the
dingoes in her classes who couldn’t be arsed to turn up regularly in term time
and who have now realised, with panic gripping their breast, that they haven’t
a prayer of passing the exam unless they spend all Easter cramming.
Mind you, when it comes to Kirklees college and their policy
of paying people six months in arrears, to a certain extent all work for them is unpaid work. This is not restricted to Kirklees either – a
friend of mine was told (on the eve of the Easter weekend, so there was absolutely
nothing that could be done about it until the Tuesday) that she was only gong
to be paid for 188 hours instead of 395 or some such similar number. There must
be a special course in ineptitude and incapability which college admin staff
have to pass in order to get a job there.
So, anyway, there were several practical problems stopping
us making an immediate getaway: my own “to-do” list, see above, plus the rather
prosaic but nevertheless disturbing fact that the downstairs loo was still
“backing up”. Long experience as a householder has taught me that if you leave
or ignore plumbing problems, they only get worse. There is no such thing as a
self-solving problem when it comes to plumbing.
I didn’t want to go away and come home to a major disaster where Granny
was flailing a yardbrush and fighting with rampaging Douglas Hurds all over the
house. In other, but unconnected news,
we were also waiting for the mobile optician to get back to us about what he
was doing with Debbie’s glasses, which she now needs for driving and watching
TV. And to top off all of this, I was
suffering from a sudden and painful flare-up in my cellulitis.
Cellulitis is an inflammation of the connective tissue
between cells and in my case it manifests itself in painful and irritating
patches of red, inflamed skin, cramps and shooting pains up my legs. All of
which makes sleeping for any prolonged length of time almost an impossibility,
and on Tuesday night I had one of the worst nights of (non) sleep in my life,
waking up on Wednesday morning after finally doing off for about ten minutes
and looking and feeling like a boiled owl.
I had a really bad “do” with cellulitis just after I came out of
hospital, in early 2011, and on that occasion it had to be zapped with
anti-biotics. But the two subsequent flare-ups had more or less sorted
themselves out, and had died away of their own accord. This current one was
proving more troublesome, though, and on Wednesday my enthusiasm for going off
in the camper had hit a new low. Mainly
because I was worrying about a) getting everything done and b) going off at
all, as a concept, in my current state – if I couldn’t sleep, or was gong to
have a medical emergency, it was probably better to do it at home rather than
half way up some God-forsaken goat-crag covered up with bugger all, sheep and
heather.
I still had three manky old anti-biotic tablets left from my
last stay in hospital, so I rang my sister and asked her – out of the benefit
of her nursing experience – whether these were likely to help in any way, and
she concluded that as they were the wrong sort, and out of date to boot, no
they probably wouldn’t. There wasn’t a
cat in Hades’ chance of getting any proper antibiotics before the Easter break,
so I decided that, if I wasn’t going to let Debbie down yet again, the only way
was to “man up” and “clog on through”. I made myself a pot of English Breakfast
Tea, took a deep refreshing draught, and started to work down the “to-do” list.
Getting John the Plumber to attend to the loo proved surprisingly
easy. One of the charges that is often levelled at pornography is that t gives
a totally unrealistic impression of the time it takes for a plumber to come
around to your house, but on this occasion, within about ten minutes of my
having spoken to him on the phone, John’s massive bulk appeared in the doorway
like a genie from a lamp. And I didn’t
even have to change into a see-through nightie. He was brandishing two white
plastic containers, overprinted with a skull-and-crossbones motif, and other
dire warnings in many languages. “I’ll put this down for now,” he declared,
jovially, “and I’ll be back at nine in the morning to see if it’s worked and
the plumbing Gods have been kind to me.” Having deployed his sinister
depth-charges, he left as swiftly as he had arrived. I ploughed steadily on
with my work, pausing only to print out the camper loading checklist [devised
by yours truly after many years of forgetting mission-critical crucial items] and
the various pages about routes and mountain weather forecasts, etc. The remainder of Wednesday passed me by, in a
dull haze of pain.
Thursday found me a little brighter, and John was as good as
his word, so I was up and about “betimes” as Samuel Pepys might have said, and
let the plumber in, at the appointed hour.
The plumbing Gods had not accepted his offering, however, so he spent
the next hour doing whatever it is plumbers do with a blocked loo when they
have to revert to “Plan B”. I don’t know, and I don’t want to know. Eventually, he pronounced it restored to health and
sanitary excellence, and, having packed away his gear, he accepted a steaming
mug of tea and settled down for a chat.
His surprising news was that he was retiring, so this would be his last
visit to us. I suppose it was
inevitable, but even so, it felt, in a minor way, like the passing of some sort
of era. We wished him well, and a long
and happy retirement on the Isle of Wight, his
destination of choice, and told him if he was ever back this way to call in,
the kettle would be on. However, for the
moment, like Napoleon, Ray Davies and Abba before him, he had met his Waterloo.
I was making inroads with the other stuff, Debbie was
getting together things to load on to the camper, and the plan was coming
together. Though I still didn’t feel 100%, it did at least seem as though we
were making progress, and we decided to get as much done as we could and the
set the alarms for an early start and get going in the morning. Elsewhere in the country, the Queen was
doubtless distributing the Maundy Money to some fortunate pensioners, it being
Maundy Thursday, but as far as I could see, this fact went completely
unreported by the BBC.
Good Friday, however, was a bit of a setback. On the plus
side, the optician came round to our house and dropped Debbie’s glasses off,
which solved one problem. On the downside, I felt much worse again, and slept
through my alarm. I felt lousy and said
as much to Debbie, but I could see she was upset at the prospect of yet another
day’s delay. Good Friday is always a day of contemplation for me, and for as
long as I can remember, I have made a point of reading Good Friday 1613, Riding Westwards, by John Donne. I don’t do the
whole sackcloth and ashes and fasting thing, but as it happened on this
particular Good Friday, I didn’t feel up to doing much other than sitting
around staring into space, so it fitted in well. Compulsory contemplation,
courtesy of my bodily state. Debbie,
meanwhile, was getting on with what she could. I am little practical help
anyway, although I can pile stuff on the tray of my wheelchair and trundle it
out to the camper in the driveway to save her a few trips.
I have an old wooden crucifix which came from I know not
where, but at the moment it’s wedged into the corner of a box in my bedroom,
and towards the middle of the afternoon, I trundled through there in my
wheelchair and composed myself for yet another attempt at prayer, for those I
cared about and that Matilda and the house would be OK while we were away. I had just settled when there was an almighty
crash from the kitchen. I trundled back
to investigate and found that the old biscuit tin where I keep my acrylic paint
tubes had slid to the tiled floor, disgorging its contents all over the place,
entailing half an hour’s work in picking them all up and putting them
back. Not exactly the veil of the Temple rending, but
enough to interfere with my contemplation.
Easter Saturday marked a complete volte face from the gloom of the preceding day and we both set to
with a will, determined to get off in the camper that day, shit or bust, as the
saying goes. Finally, finally, things
were coming together, and by teatime we were ready to roll. I was loaded up,
the camper was loaded up, and the dogs were loaded up. I say “dogs” in the
plural, because along the way we’d acquired Zak, who was coming on holiday with
us to give Granny a bit of a break while she was looking after Matilda. Deb got into her stride with the driving, and
we were soon bowling along the M62, then the M61, then the M6. The roads were relatively empty, and we made
good time. I noted that the iffy
junction at Greenodd on the A590 had been replaced by a roundabout, so Cumbria
County Council must have been busy over the winter. Soon we were on the outskirts of Barrow, and
rumbling past the English Heritage sign for Furness Abbey, where the medieval
knights sleep on in their strangely modern looking Eric Gill style art deco
tombs. A further surprise awaited us on
Walney – the approach road to the beach slipway where we normally park up is
usually in an appalling state, with axle breaking moon craters, but someone
again had been busy during the dark days of winter, and had filled them
in! We found a level bit and settled
down for the night. It had been a long, long day.
Easter Sunday found me listening to a skylark, high in the
air over the next field, soaring and singing like the very spirit of Christ
ascending, except I know that this is
theologically inaccurate. Breakfast and
dog-feeding were quickly despatched, and Debbie took Misty and Zak down on the
beach for a game of “stones”, a simple pastime where she throws pebbles and
they attempt to bring them back. Misty
isn’t very good at this; it was during a game of “stones” on Arran
that she brought back a dead jellyfish. Nearly right. Before we drove away, I tried to log on using
the “dongle” supplied by Everything Everywhere, and found I must have missed a
small asterisk and the words “except for Walney Island”
somewhere in their literature. The dongle was deader than tank tops and
sideways-ironed flares. Oh well, five days without the internet seemed actually
quite a pleasant prospect.
We were setting off on an expedition because Debbie wanted
to break in her boots on a climb of Gummer’s Howe, which is only a little pimple
on the face of the Cumbrian landscape, but she wanted to make sure that nothing
was wrong with any of her kit before trying anything more spectacular. On the way out of Barrow we passed the
posters for the cheap and cheerful local shops, including one that claimed they
always had “1000s of rugs in stock,” adding underneath, rather unsuccessfully, “Rugs!
Rugs! Rugs!” Further along, at Lindal in Furness, there were half a dozen
chickens browsing and pecking just on the grass verge at the roadside; presumably
they had escaped from the smallholding on the other side, and crossed the road
- but who knows why?
The woods at the side of the road were hazed with bluebells,
which I hoped sincerely were the English ones and not the Spanish interlopers.
Either way I felt properly “springy” for the first time this year. Gummer’s Howe was duly conquered. It only
takes about half an hour to get up there anyway, but Debbie had stopped at the
top to brew up some coffee on her meths stove, almost causing a brush-fire in
the process. I was struck by how few
people there were around, but thinking about it, I put this down to the fact
that this year, Easter and the May Day holiday were so close together that
people had obviously chosen the later one on the grounds that the weather was
probably going to be better.
Back at Walney, Debbie was contemplating lighting a camp
fire, until I pointed out the sign that indicated that we were parked up on top of the high pressure
gas pipeline. I had visions of Huw Edwards gravely intoning “And now over to
our reporter, who is actually live on the scene of the Walney Island gas
disaster, where emergency services are struggling to stop the conflagration
engulfing the nearby nuclear submarine shipyard…” So we cooked tea inside the
camper instead.
Out of the blue, after tea, Debbie asked me “So where does
Lazarus come into it, then?” I explained that Lazarus doesn’t figure in the
Crucifixion, he was just some other
guy that Jesus raised from the dead.
Jesus had a couple of practice runs, one on Lazarus, and then one on
Jairus’s daughter, before winding himself up for the big Cahuna. We got on to discussing what Easter actually was,
and I sort of ran through, as best as I could, given my own doubts, ignorance,
and limited knowledge, the Christian theology of the whole thing. Deb was scornful of the description of Good
Friday as being “good”, which brought to my mind the old joke about Jesus, when
asked, saying “Well, actually, now you mention it, I have had better Fridays…”
It would have been too windy for a fire anyway. By now, the
wind was truly roaring outside, and the camper was rocking on its springs. It
was going to be a wild and woolly night, that was for sure. We decided that discretion was the better
part of valour and burrowed into our various sleeping bags, duvets and
blankets, settling down to ride out the storm. At some point in the early hours, I was woken
by the gale keening and howling through
the steel hawsers of the kayak hoist on the van roof.
I lay there listening
to it, and the drumming rain, and wondered if it was doing the same at home,
and if so, whether all the roof tiles where still on. I offered up a fervent
prayer to St Gertrude of Nivelles, and anyone else who might be listening, that
Granny had remembered to prop the cat flap open, and that Matilda had found it,
and remembered how to use it, so that she was safe and warm inside the house
and not out in all the wind, rain, muck and fury raging outside the camper at
that precise moment.
Easter Monday was slightly calmer, and once we’d established
that we hadn’t been blown into the sea, breakfast was quickly accomplished,
followed by dog-feeding and the now-compulsory game of “stones”. We were starting to get into the camper
routine again, which was a help, but already we needed some stuff that we
hadn’t foreseen, particularly water, since the dogs had drunk their own weight
in H2O since we’d arrived. An expedition to Booths in Ulverston filled the
gaps, but at the expense of trashing anything in the way of a timetable for
hill-walking. Instead, when we got back,
Debbie took Misty and Zak off on a beachcombing walk along the shoreline, right
down to the southern tip, which is fenced off as a bird sanctuary, and back
again.
As we were on site earlier than we had thought, Debbie
announced her intention of lighting a fire, although it was starting to get
windy again. To facilitate this, instead of stopping on the shoulder of the
road, near to the new high-pressure gas pipeline sign, we motored on up the track
to the higher ground at the end near the navigation beacon on the cliff. As it turned out, the prospect of a gas
explosion might have kept us warmed up a bit.
The wind gradually rose yet again, sending sparks fleeing into the
darkness. Unfortunately, it was far too
windy to cook the food properly, so Deb had to abandon the idea of cooking over
the open fire, and pass the ingredients back to me, inside the van, to finish
off on the gas rings. In the process, she managed to kick over her bottle of
beer and Zak took advantage of the confusion to snaffle some vegan “chicken
nuggets” off one of the plates. It was quickly turning into one of the most
disastrous meals we had ever attempted al
fresco. A fact which was confirmed the following day when Debbie found
that, unbeknown to her the night before, a spark had burned a perfect circular
hole in one of her best airs of “camping trousers”.
“Easter Tuesday” brought better weather, and with it wagtails,
oystercatchers, lapwings, and skylarks.
In fact, the brightness almost caused a bit of heat-haze along the
horizon, which meant that for once on a Walney trip we didn’t see the Isle of Man, or the mountains of Snowdonia looming like
the gigantic prow of a distant battleship on the horizon. Debbie had been researching the possibility
of two different ridge walks around the Coniston range, and we decided that
today we’d check it out on the ground, so that, come the morrow, she’d be able
to get straight off. If it hadn’t been smack in the middle of the National Park
teatowel belt, we’d have contemplated trying to find somewhere nearer at hand
to camp overnight.
Having checked out Coniston, we ended up tootling round to
the east side of the lake, passing Ruskin’s former house at Brantwood. While
Debbie took Misty and Zak off for a brief stroll through the woods, I sat and
contemplated the lake, feeling the movement of the trees all around me in a
great cloister, a nave of swaying wood. A forest is a living organism. It loses
old trees, but young ones grow in the gaps. It is in a constant state of flux.
Just as Heraclitus said you can’t step into the same river twice, in the same
way you can’t walk through the same forest twice, and the Coniston forest I was
visiting was both the same and not the same as the one from which I had watched
Debbie kayaking across the lake in 2009.
A massive tree, hundreds of years old, finally decays,
succumbs, dies and falls. Its logs
provide warmth for the limbs of mankind, puny men with puny lifespans. Men whose
ancestors saw it long ago, as a green stripling. Lichens grow on its corpse,
and insects feast on it as it crumbles to mulch over many more years. But the
other trees still remember it, respect its gap, and mourn its passing, in the
sound of the autumn gales moaning through their branches. And even the young
saplings coming through in the green join in with a shrill descant as summer
sighs over them, even though they don’t know why. A forest puts you, and everything else, in
perspective. I thought of the trees, and
their timescale, and of Freddie, and the short lives of dogs, the dogs we’ve
loved and lost, seemed, in comparison, like fleeting sparks from Debbie’s camp
fire.
Eventually, Deb returned with Misty and Zak, both bedraggled
from a swim in the lake. We went back to Walney, continuing via the road that
runs down the east side of Coniston Water, the quiet, narrow road which is such
a contrast to the red A-road that runs up the other side to Torver. When we got back and had fed and settled the
dogs, we had an impromptu meal of couscous with mushrooms, shallots, and
chopped up veggie sausages, which actually looked and tasted in real life a lot
better than it sounds on paper.
Wednesday morning dawned bright and breezy, but with the odd
bit of rain in the breeze. The shoreline
was intermittently sunny, then dull.
There was even a bit of surf. I had upped my self-administered dosage of
Paracetamol and had a slightly better night. I had also managed to get through to the
repeat prescriptions helpline at the surgery and order some more Furosemide for
Friday. Wednesday lunchtime found us once more back in Coniston, parked up in
the old station car park, because we couldn’t find the one at the start of the
actual Walna Scar Road,
the start for Debbie and the dogs’ proposed walk. It turned out later that the
grid reference on the web page Deb had printed off beforehand is wrong. Also, the car park is actually marked on the
1:25,000 OS map but not on the 1:50,000 one. All very odd, but, sadly, par for
the course.
The idea of this walk was to “bag” several Wainwrights in
one go. There are 214 of them, so if you actually set out to do each one as a
separate, discrete climb, it would clearly take you some time to do them all.
But by “ridge walking” – climbing one of them, then walking along the ridge to
take in the other peaks of the same “range” you can get six or seven in one
walk, especially when they cluster closely together, in the Langdales for
instance. Deb, Zak and Misty duly
embarked on their walk, which was actually 13 miles in all and which took in
seven of the fells around Coniston, but not The Old Man; today, though, they
were doing the shortened version, which was only nine miles. While they were gone, I painted my picture of
“St Padre Pio taking St Roche’s Dog to the Vet”, and practised being silent.
Teach us to care and not to care, teach us to sit still, as the man once said.
It was still fine when they got back at 6.30pm but Debbie was in no hurry to
repeat the camp fire debacle again, so instead we had vegan burgers and chips.
On Thursday, I was first out of my sleeping bag and got the
kettle on for the early morning cuppa. I popped the side door of the camper.
Three of t
Saturday was spent unpacking and catching up, and somehow,
now, it has come to be Sunday and the feast of St Maughold. Appropriately enough, given our recent trip,
Maughold is associated with the Isle of Man.
Maughold was supposedly originally an Irish freebooting pirate who was
converted to Christianity by no less a personage than St Patrick himself. He
died in 448AD.
One persistent local legend tells how Maughold tried to make
a fool out of Patrick. Maughold had placed a living man in a shroud. He then
called on Patrick to try to revive the supposed corpse. Patrick placed a hand
on the shroud, and left. When Maughold and his friends opened the shroud, they
found unfortunately, that the man had died in the interim. One of Maughold's
friends, Connor, went over to Patrick's camp and apologized to him. Patrick rather
sportingly returned and baptized all of the men assembled including the man who
had died, who immediately returned to life. Patrick then criticized Maughold,
saying he should have been helping his men and giving them an example so they
could be leading good lives, and told him he must atone for his evil.
Patrick punished him by placing him in a coracle without
oars. Maughold drifted to the Isle of Man, where two of Patrick's disciples, Romulus and Conindrus,
were already established. He is said to have been chosen as bishop, succeeding Romulus and Conindrus, by
the Manx people, after he had spent time on the island as a hermit. He is still
remembered today on the Isle of Man for his
kind disposition toward the Manx natives, and his name lives on in the local
topography - several places on the island, including Maughold parish, Maughold
Head, and St. Maughold's Well are named after him.
So, there we have St Maughold, whose chief claim to fame
seems to have been to prove that St Patrick could be a bit of a bastard, when
he wasn’t busy driving the snakes out of Ireland. If you are ever moved to
visit St Maughold’s Well, this description from 1874 gives you some idea of
what to expect:
After leaving the
churchyard at the north-east corner, and crossing a field, the stranger, by
searching a little, will find St. Maughold’s Well, which is situated directly
above the sea, a little way down the north cliff, half hidden by gorse and
grass. Those who have had their expectations raised will be rather disappointed.
The well is in a dilapidated and neglected condition. A few stones form a
square, open to the north, and within the inclosure is a small scooped stone
into which the water flows from the rock, but so slowly that it is hardly
perceptible. The water is no doubt chalybeate. The stone or rock which formed
the saint’s chair is overgrown or destroyed, for there is no such to be found.
It is not altogether unlikely that, nearly fourteen hundred years ago, at this
very font, St. Maughold administered the baptismal rite. He is said to have
blessed the well, and endowed it with certain healing virtues. It was formerly
much resorted to by women for its health-imparting qualities. The water was
imagined to derive additional efficacy if drank sitting in the saint’s chair,
which was scooped out of the adjacent rock. For many ages it has been the
custom for the natives to make a pilgrimage on the first Sunday in August to
drink of its waters, and even now, on that day, the young people in the
neighbourhood pay holiday visits to the spot.
I don’t derive much spiritual sustenance from the Legend of
St Maughold, but, strangely enough, partly I suppose because of the enforced
lack of the internet, I did have a more contemplative time than I had
anticipated this Easter. I didn’t feel
lonely, even when left on my own for long periods of time, although I can see
that it would also be an absolute hoot to organise a “camper van convention”
and somehow get all of our friends and Debbie’s family together in a camper
convoy and all sit around the camp fire carousing and singing pirate
songs. Maybe next year.
My musings on the crucifixion have left me none the wiser,
though I did find some time for prayer, which I put to use partly in praying
for the best outcome for Freddie, whatever that may be. As I type this, he is
still a sort of Schrodinger’s Dog, poised and hovering between this world and
the next. He will be sorely missed if and when his time does come. He may only
be about a foot tall, but he has the great heart of a timber-wolf. The only consolation is that he has had a
great life, for a little mutt who was originally picked up ill and neglected
and made well and strong and given toys to play with, dog treats, balls to chase,
mince and chicken, and a soft bed to lie on, in front of a warm fire. So yes, I have been contemplating the
fleeting nature of happiness, life as a spark, and wondering – as I always do –
where the sense of it lies. Life is
lent, as the Saxons said – lyf is leone – and “between the intention and the
action, falls the shadow”. I didn’t really need Tom Archer to remind me of
that, I have seen enough of it in my own life.
And yet, and yet, I come back to those moments – the
visionary gleam of the sunlight on the blades of three distant wind-turbines,
poking out of the sea-mist, and the living cathedral of the great forest,
sighing all around me. Figments and fragments, maybe, but also glimpses beyond
a veil? Was there one, or two sets of footsteps across the sand?
Next week will be back to the grim old grind. I doubt the
seventeen intractable problems will have been solved while I have been away. I
think the intractable problem fairy has had the week off, too. But at least
while I am struggling with everything in the days to come, I can pause once or
twice and think of the hills and the trees and the sea – not exactly crazed
with the songs of Arabia, but perhaps with an ear cocked for the sound of the
waves on the sands at Walney.